02656nam a2200361 i 4500 CR9780511618536 UkCbUP 20240716174243.0 m|||||o||d|||||||| cr|||||||||||| 141103s2007||||enk o ||1 0|eng|d 9780511618536 (ebook) 9780521860284 (hardback) 9780521129954 (paperback) UkCbUP eng rda UkCbUP QA927 .H66 2007 551.4630151 22 Holthuijsen, Leo H., author. Waves in oceanic and coastal waters / Waves in Oceanic & Coastal Waters Cambridge : Cambridge University Press, 2007. 1 online resource (xvi, 387 pages) : digital, PDF file(s). text txt rdacontent computer c rdamedia online resource cr rdacarrier Title from publisher's bibliographic system (viewed on 05 Oct 2015). 1. Introducion -- 2. Observation techniques -- 3. Description of ocean waves -- 4. Statistics -- 5. Linear wave theory (oceanic waters) -- 6. Waves in oceanic waters -- 7. Linear wave theory (coastal waters) -- 8. Waves in coastal waters -- 9. The SWAN wave model -- App. A. Random variables -- App. B. Linear wave theory -- App. C. Spectral analysis -- App. D. Tides and currents -- App. E. Shallow-water equations. Waves in Oceanic and Coastal Waters describes the observation, analysis and prediction of wind-generated waves in the open ocean, in shelf seas, and in coastal regions with islands, channels, tidal flats and inlets, estuaries, fjords and lagoons. Most of this richly illustrated book is devoted to the physical aspects of waves. After introducing observation techniques for waves, both at sea and from space, the book defines the parameters that characterise waves. Using basic statistical and physical concepts, the author discusses the prediction of waves in oceanic and coastal waters, first in terms of generalised observations, and then in terms of the more theoretical framework of the spectral energy balance. He gives the results of established theories and also the direction in which research is developing. The book ends with a description of SWAN (Simulating Waves Nearshore), the preferred computer model of the engineering community for predicting waves in coastal waters. Water waves Mathematical models. Ocean waves Mathematical models. Print version: 9780521860284 https://doi.org/10.1017/CBO9780511618536 27341 27341